Buttonhole-sewing machine.



o. A. DAHL.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 20, 1910.

Patented Feb. 24, 19%

4 SHEETS-8511121. 1.

O. A. DAHL.

v BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 20, 1910 Patented Feb. 24; 1914.

4 SHEETS-8HEET 2.

G. A. DAHL. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 20, 1910.

1,088,652, 1 Patented Feb. 24, 1914 4 SHBETS BHEET 3.

C. A. DAHL.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

4 3HBETS-BHEET 4.

Y mic a ckawzes CZ 2627:? $3

Patented Feb. 24, 191i *wzatve APPLIOATION FILED MAY 20, 1910. 1,088,652.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES A. DAHL, 0F ROXB U BY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE REECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSAC TUSETTS, A COR- PO RATION OF MAINE.

BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent. v

Patented Feb. 24, 1914.

T 0 all whom 1' It may concern: Be it known that I, CHARLES A. DAHL, a citizen. of the United States, and resident of Roxbury, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement n Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which th following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to sewing-machines particularly adapted for overstitching the edges of buttonholes and other openings in material, and it has for ,its object the pro- (luction of a lguttonhole sewing machine of very simple constructioh and which can be run at high speed, so constructed and m;-

The longitudinal movement of the work? her .35, 1902 to me, and anothe:

ranged that a two-threadovei'seam is formed with av single eye-pointed needle operating in conjunction with a single combined looper and spreader.

In the machine embodying my present invention th upper thread is carried by a vertically reciprocating and laterally vibrated needle which penetrates the work from above, and the loop of needle-thread below the work, on the thrust of the needle for the edge as well as ton the depth stitch. is engaged by .a complemental member of the, stitch-forming instrumentality located below the work, such member carrying the under thread, which latter is brought into such cooperative relation with the needlethread as to form therewith astitch of the overseam.

The work is held in a suitable work-clamp, and I have chosen to illustrate my invention in connection with a work-clam which is eivcn a movement in the direction of the length of the huttonholc and also a lateral movement relative thereto, as in United States Patent No. 714,284 granted Novemand as in my prior Patent No. 749,776 granted January 19, 1904;. Herein, as in said patents, the stitching is commenced at or near one end of the buttonhole and is carried along one side thereof; the work-clamp is then shifted laterally to place the work in position for tho barring stitches, and thereafter the movement of the work-clamp lengthwise of the buttonhole is reversed, while stitches for the second side of the bnttonhole are made.

'thrust or work-penetrating stroke.

known construction, whereas in my present.

invention a stitch composed of concatenated loops is formed by the needle and ,under threads, and this is effected irrespective, of the direction of feed. of the work, without any relative turning movement between the work and the stitch'l'orming instrumentality, either or both.

In the present invention I provide an upper-thread loop-forming mechanism and a complemental under-thread mechanism which is arranged to form loops in the under thread and actuatim mechanism for said parts by which the loops of upper thread are inserted alternately through 'reviously formed loops of upper thread and loops of under thread. Said complemental underthread mechanism is located below the work and is so constructed and arranged that it spreads and holds -the loops of both the 1 needle will enter its own loo and on' the next thrust it will enter the cop of under 7 thread. W-

The complemental member as herein shown is made in two parts which are movable bodily in unison and they also have a relative movement towardand from each other, similar to the opening and closing movements of a pair of scissor-blades. When said parts are closed the complementaLmem-ber acts as a looper to enter the loop of necdle-thread below the work, and when said parts are separated such coniplemental member acts as a loop S]')I'tt(lgl', tn spread the loops of upper and under thread and to hold them spread while one or the other of such loops placed in proper poi, sition relative to the needle on its" next Thus such complemental mei'nher is a combined looper and spreader, and it also is a loop holder and positioner, will appear more fully hereinafter.

In the drawings I have illustrated my -i no work in fox-mm em-i011 but i.

joined spesi Ol'il- 1n tbs isllmvm 3.1a being 131%,

25 stitch L 3'1; low work; F 1g, 4+. is a transv 45' posit die animating if as: a left hand illustratfid in worth). pf the nwshzmlsm for 382" thread and 0 erating Wiih the. needle to Own the Heated in (lode-ll lines; rgcd underside View of he 00pmand spmader and the memanismjw' act msing the: same, all located neaih l ke bcclmlate of the machine and 11); l :c 320 lieu of such devices-{alien on fihe irregular line 4 4, FigJS; Fig. is a rear elevation "atlas of ti '1 'l, the 110 control} of the ('nmbinerl laoper and spread-2y which consili'ules the member of the stltclbforming msigrumentalzy cmnplemenlal to the eyepoimed needle; F 5. 6 is a top plan view thereof; Fig 6 a top plan View of 0m; 0f the parts of the said camplemental membet; Bug. 7 is an enlarged underside View 01'' such compleinental member acting as a leap-a1 and abeulto enter the loop ofnee all mead. the needle being down; Figs. 8

Imwmiion in CiLflLEBCilOIl with :1, Gulf 'ne suQh 3:5 is SliQWl'l in l 330, jHQ Y'Zii "1L being under die, the actual-in" meclmf m2rl-3.ax2 fund its H5 .1 1.1 tbs pmwm in 11 almilar views, but much enlarge-cl, of i l m rmher having remrnml to sl'lownfin 1F lg. I after the cyclov A d, the position corresponding to llmt shc #11 in Fig; 13; Fig"; 14 and 15 are Ilat'tl. upper and under thrgads during the fa? nation of time Stlifih, and correspond to 'rtwnz; thez'eoi' in Figs. 10 and 1.1, I

rwpe lively; l ig. lll is an enlarged View, an tlm Emv Figs. 141- and 15, of the w mm cmental membep in the various; Yfl-(l durmg the stltchformisg i slotted to (embrace film mttmqblack {not on a still lzirger scale of the concatebe ten; 'n edle-thread a 1M l a e howl; b9.

0:; the [3] on lllebedagging iiilil :1 tubular fulcrumed on stud T3 f-1lilt- 99 .f' mozznuwjl on bracket m; the from and of he averlnmging arm of the machine, and f0 pr'nvide for the latf-ral vibration of the needle-bay film mat the st tchlng 039 it hummhole Qiljifi null +1111 is mnnecn-xl with 5 by the main shaft Eli film 1ihZ-l:, sf. the sleeve acting tm'eugh the link 54, m V

brate the radius -ba r Y2 and 'zhereby ellect the lateral vibratisn of the needleimz after each desceni the)?" f.

The work-clam cnmprises limgltuilinally-m mble plate nveylmpped at itg edges by guicl -plaixes 3'? atiaclwd to the bedplate .53, s,

l plate 1n gramme emg shown), testbed portiens 412 0f the {date contacting with flue under skis 9f film werl: held in tlze clamp by time pwasqm'e against its upper side exerted by feet LL13 Said fee-E are carried by arms s24, 45 cmmecteci with a bloc; mounted an a stud in. ears at the rear end of the plate 36 said block hav ing exwnded baCkWzw-flly fmm it an arm 3, and each of the arms Q4, 45 is acied upon by a spring 50, all as in my Pat ent N0. 749,??6 hereinbsfore referred. to.

The work having been clamped in the Eric-clamp and fl) machine leaving been. rzmrteililw said. 'xxoz-kzlan p is first named Lang" ullinaly in the dire 11" n, of the length il'ii. l {l0 tl'xe la 1 dure mll-fvmxing inslcrw mates to stitch mm Side of the. :"c lateral vlbraticn of 311 needle causing the formation of depth and edge stitches alternately, afterwhich the \'orkclarnp is shifted to position the work for the barring stitches. Then the Workclamp is moved in they direction of the length of the buttonhole, but opposite to its original motion, (to the right, Fig. 1) while the stitches for the second side of the buttonholc are. made, and the end is barred, such movements of the clamp, and its 'final lateral shift to original starting position in readiness for the stitching of the next but-tonhole, being effected substantially as in the before mentioned patents.

The needle-thread tension device comprises essentially a lever 91 fnlcrumed at 90, Fig. l, and carrying a suitable spring-cont olled tension device 92, and the extension 95 of lever 91 has attached to it a spring 96 connected at its other end to the short arm of a lever 97 ftilcrumed at 98 on the standard A The longer arm of the lever is notched to engage a' stop 99 on the extension 95 and hold the tension device in the position shown in Fig. 1. the. lFlltlOll in which it is left after stitching tne first halt of a buttonhole and when the machine is stopped at the completion of a buttonhole.

The manuallycontrolled starting-lever 101 when depressed slides the rod H to the left to shift the driving belt onto the fast pulley A to start the machine, and at the same time arm 103 of the starting-lever acts on lever 97 to disengage its longer arm from the stud 99, permitting the spring 96 to move the tension device 92 toward the needle-bar, while by suitable means (not shown) the springs 50 act to close the work-clamp and clamp the work therein, all as in Patent NO. 749,776.

From the tension device 92 the needlethread passes through an eye in a. suitable take-up arm 92". Fig. 2, and leads thence directly to and through the eye of the needle E".

I will now describe the novel features of my invention whereby the under thread is controlled and concatenated with the needle thread to forinan overseam, the two devices immediately cooperating to that end being the eve-pointed needle carrying the upper thread and a complemental member carrying the under thread and combining in itself the functions of a looper, loop-spreader, and ositioner for the loops of thread.

The main shaft A near its outer or left hand end, viewing Fig. 1, has fast thereon a cam disk M, Figs. 2. 22. l and 17. provided in its outer face with a peculiarly shaped vain gro-iire indicated as a whole at Kl, Fig. t, to receive a. follower roll or oth r stud m crt ndcd from a rod m. mounted to reciprocate longitudinally in a, fixed hearing m on the under side of the bed-plate .'V, the rear end of said rod being forked at m to slid ingly embrace the main shaft between the cam disk M and the shaft bearing A, Fig. 3. Herein. this rod is shown as reciprocated at right angles to the direction of-the length of the buttonhole to be made, and at its front end said rod carries a fixedly attached, upright collar m having at its upper end an upright pivot stud m to which is pivotally connected one end of a link m, theother end of the link being pivotally connected kl! m with a looper-carrier. This looper-carrier is herein shown as a horizontally swinging arm m provided with a long hub m fulcrnmed on a stud m dependin from the bed-plate beyond the outer or le t hand end of the throat plate T, Fig. 3, said throat plate being longitudinally slotted and ha ving an enlarged lateral needle opening'l.

The free. end of the looper-carricr has fixedly attached to it by a suitable screw m the under thread carr ing complemental member of the stitchorming instrumentality, to be presently described, such member s inging as a Whole in a path trans verse to and adj acent the path of the needle in its thrusts for both depth and edge stitches.

Referring to Figs. 4 and 17 the cam groove M has two opposite circular portions m, m, of like radii which determine the point to which the complemental member is retracted after each descent of the needle, the dwell periods during which such member is at rest being governed by the length of said portions.

In the position of the parts shown in Figs. 3 and 4 the complcmental member is fully retracted and at rest. in the position corre sponding to Fig. 7, but readv to move forward to take a loop of needle-thread, such forward stroke being effected when the roll m moves toward the shaft-A by traversing the part m of the cam groove, a corresponding portion m diametrically opposite etfecting the next forward stroke, it being understood that for-each revolution of shaft A the needle makes two descents, for depth and edge stitches, and the complemcntal member makes two complete oscillations. ta king a loop of needle-thread on each forward stroke.

Fig. 8 shows the position of the compleinen'ral member when the deepest portion of the part m governs the roll m, and Fig. 11 shows its position when the deepest portion of part in, is acting upon the roll m. From the middle of the part m there is a short, quick rise to partially retract the complemcntal member to the position shown in Fig. 5). and the complete retraction to the posi-' tion shown in Fig. 10 is effected by the part in of the groove, so that one oscillation of the carrier m is completed when the roll m enters the part We of the groove. After the dwell m. the roll m traverses the part at" Pious to be, iiosrritmci followed by a short.

ll 'eli and than the coinpietion of the retraotiw movement. the initial retmctiim; dwell and final m1 action being efi eclecl by the per lions m), m" mad m", respectively, of the com. groove lllQ cycle being coinplotecl when too roil m roach th iong' dwe-li m.

The subotnmmlly L-slmped complemental n'mniher i.-. Lorain shown as comprising a amok Z liming a tapered, lateral extension Z rzonatituting tho ioopor, anti a low; spreader 5, a headed pivot-stud rotataoiy mounted in a hoia 3-. Fig. 6", in the enlarged base of tin: loops! and screwed into he spreader a, Fig. 5; serving to pivotully connect the spreader and looper.

The loop spreader rcgts upon the fiat face ofilm ioo'pgr, Figs. ggfimd' 6. and has a deending: tail 8 engaged by one end of a light spring a" coiled. around the stud 2 between its head 4: and the uncler far/e of the looper. tho latter carrying a depending pin 5 engagzul by the other end of said Spring, the spring being: so wound as tonornmllv hold one edg'r of the snrczulcr a aiosi :1 shoulder i on tile ioopor Shank as in ii, this clonal n fion of tiuloom-r and apienilor Ming." slum'n 21S \iowwi from tin: i fi k bifi, Fifi in Figs. 7. 10 and iii.

The outer 2:12P of ilio r inn; it 100 arrosring should-9r T. ofdwnlmgf Afro- 1s its lnWor face. and a diagonal ri e i=5 iorimnj in the looper. passing llziiillgji). the glionliller, while 2: nond eye 5? is i'orinml in the looper lmno'i'v V tilui'eof near it" point r tip, through which the mailer ilnozwl t led to the siitoirformingr point.

In Figs. 5 to 1G lZlC-iHEiYt fin mnlerthread t is indicgtgd by; a thick bind; line to distinguish it from tho nppor or needle thread 'n.

'lwo notches it 11. are made in the outer edge of (he spreader. the notch 10 being substantially opposite the shoulder 7 and notch 11. opposite the eye 9 of the loopor.

From the foregoing; description. and 21130 bv referring to the Milan-sled detail views Figs. 7-to 13, it Wili be sum that the spreader has a movmnont in nrliwn with the iooper and also a lateral swinging nn'woment rolalivolv tliorolo upon tine #1 a fulcrum. mi stml not only conmwl'zng tin? Quid parts :nmportiag o f i)FQflGQV'CiOFiiHQI When tlio :gsi'tzlrifl iliw ooww and upon the ioopoz. with its tip -l-.-,- y :ippi'oncliing tho tip of Hit ioopor.

"(i Li A.

ghown in Figs. 5 anti 6, mid parts being closed it rounded over or convened it. their edgvq to rearliiv enter till? loop of .am 'llitlnoad in forming the stitch.

The 0nd of the i on sprezilior adjarriot its; depending tail can. shapwi. at 82 boat shown in the largo detail vions, to K intur mittingly engaged by 7t bPTQildG!QQMNI',

shown as it fingrr 8'. having an olongniod and deep flat engaging; portion r, Fig. 3. and fixedly uni-noted on :1 iovor hilurnmed at 1;.0}: the bearing! 912/, lzoiein shown. Beyond the fnloruni stn-ii the lever is 0xtended at x show too main shaft A and provided with a IHilt-l or other SKU 1 a which is hold by swing S, (portly shown in Fig. 3) against the .nljru-ont. fiat is the cam disk )1 or agaiml :liumetrimily opposite aznniunwb '19. a LEW-won. svnnnvtrlrally located with. ref-poet to il o chyo'il nor ti'ons m. either of said nun Enrol; Birgit the mini-31ml (and ro." in toward t n: impel ziilicl' in midi the are of tho finger (and A" and My the can! pow tion of the itm;;- giromlerr. t open the latter and iioiai it open' (lurk; a. oortiw of its mowmrnt witii iio lowp'z'i'. (r ot-is own ing of the lWip-bifi'flfitie! UPPHXS :iftor the looprr and closed Wren-(irrlimo ontwmi a loop of nmxlbwtlirsnul and inninloi'nol no tilv after the noodle on wit-X? descent through tiie worlt has passed through one or tho other of the two sprmol loops of needle and nndirr tlaromL I i ll is to he understood tlmt the partiruiar Hit'iilullit "1 shown and iw'vri ml herein for contr lling the o'vrillation of H10 loopr-r and iUt)}')-H])I(ltitil is illustrative on and timt any ther suitable inwthzzn'nn for scouring s" 15 swung! and soup? of my invention.

The under would 3 lwi i's'ozn 1X Sl'illl' 'ifi of wpply to a soitnbi'. to 'on device If. Fig. and theme to a "o 2:" :xml :1 spring take-up 5. from wl the i'mrad ltkLdF. to the oyos 8 and -l of on: looper. and am is usual. in buttonhole-sowing: ioacliim-s the free (and oi the nn irr ihreml. isrnrried up through the newllwoponing Tof the throat plate T to the top of tl boil-plate iioforo the; stitching is commenced.

The eye-pointed noodle E l-? ni 'iplimi with needle-thread n n shown in l igjs. l moi '2. and after the Work is ului'n 'wll in tlnworkclamp the machine is Martini and :9 toll-- in of'tho lmtton'liol i Mill-ml.

The stit li-formim: l; is ii imimml in Figs. 7 to 13. in mrmo rion wiih Fig. H to 1.6. and in Fig. 7 it i. supooswl tin the needle hm: (.liuH 'l-h l lflii'lzzlif l ilic: now-rial in iisgputli noin' liar im .-i' ii." i'nzntliine, and then in? :"i n snlii irno to throw out o ioop of of. nwllotlwmd. The looper and closed spreader M no forward owl enter such loop n, and in so doin carry a bight of the under thread t throng said loop and form an under thread loop .t, and the loopspreader a is opened. by cooperation of the part 8 and the end 8* of the linger s, to spread the two loops, Fig. 8, the needle having risen when the needle-thread loop n was taken by the looper and closed spreader, one side of each loop a. I" being held by the looper Z the spreader s is opened or swung away from the looper. By the forward movement of the looper and closed spreader the loop a is drawn against the shoulder 7 on the looper and as the spr ader is opened the notches 10, 11 thereof engage and hold the two loops u, t as they are spread, see Fig. 8. Still holding the loops spread the looper and spreader are retracted for enough to enable the needle on it next descent, (the needle having been shifted laterally. while about the work) to pass through its own spread loop n, the points of 1a netration of the needle in thework be ing: indi ated at c and (3 respectively. the direction of feed of the work being indieated by arrow F Comparing Figs. 8 and f it will be seen that first the spread loop a is at one side of the point at from which the loop sides lead, and thereafter by retraction of the looper and spreader, the loop a is carried to the opposite side of the needle penetrating point (1, as appears in Fig. l), but the relative position of the bases of the loops 1: and t is not changed.

While parts are in the position shown in Fig.1. 9, and after the needle descends at 0 through its own loop a, the looper and spreader are further retractral to the position shown in Fig. '10, (which is the same as shoun in l 7) the continued descent of the needle 1-: 11;: oil' the loop i from the looper and spreader as the latter closes. hr-n the l i" i-' thus ea t oil flUlll the looper and s read r it is drawn out of the loop if. and the tree side of such loop Z is drawn around the needle above the loop n as the latter in ust ol'l' onto the needle, as shown in Fig. l .\s the needle begins to rise and throw out a second loo of needle--thread, Fig. h). the looper and closed spreader are moved-forward or adyanced to enter r take such loop a and carry a bight ol' the under thread through i-t. as before, the loop vi gliding" alon, up to the shoulder T, and after the loop n has been taken the needle rises and is shifted again. the rise. of the needle takiin the sides of the loop 71 up through the low, a, while thespreader opens: and spread--x the loop n and the second loop 4" of under thread, as d pieted in Fig". l 1. .ln prai'th'e the sides of the spread loops u and i" will be substantially taut, but in order to clearly illustrate the relationship between the various loops in Fia 11 I have distorted the right hand sides of the loop n, t so that they appear slack, as otherwise the drawing would be, much confused. During this ascending needle more ment the looper and spreader have been retracted, but for a shorter distance than when the loop n was positioned as in Fig. 1), to the position shown in Fig. 12, so that the descending: needle will pass through the loop 1* of under thread and wholly outside of the loop n of needle-thread. The retractive movement of the looper and spreader is now resumed and completed and the spreader closes. the loop a. a it is cast oti' being, looped around the sides of the under thread loop F while the said loop t is carried around the needle, as in Fig. 13, the rise of the needle throwing out a third loop/11 to be entered on the next forward stroke of the looper and spreader.

When the CUIIIPlQIHEHttll member reaches the position shown in Fig. 13 the cycle is completed, the operations described being repeated in regular order as the stitching proceeds, the loop n", Fig. 13, corresponding in the next cycle to the loop 11/, Fig. 7, of the cycle just described.

From the above description it will be seen that the machine herein shown comprises an upper-thread loop-forming mechanism in the form of an eye-pointed needle which forms a succession of loo s in the upper thread, a coniplemental un er-thread mechanism herein shown in the form of a threadcarrying looper and spreader and means for aetuatinp said parts whereby the loops of upper thread are inserted alternately through previously formed loops"0f upper thread and loops of under thread,

The concatenation of the threads in the formation of the stitch during the cycle is w ll illustrated in Figs. 14, 15 and 16, and in Fig. 16 the completed stitch shown before it has been set, with the two threads interconnected to form theoverseam, as will be manifest, it being practically impossible to illustrate in an intelligible manner the stitch when completely set and the threads drawn taut. In Figs. 8 and 9 the part t of the under thread is actually in loop form, while in Fig. 10 this same part is shown as but'slightly bent around the needle, the reference character I being still retained for such part. and also in Figs. 11 and 12, said part in these figures being bent about one of the sides of the needle-thread loop a and continuing thence to the second loop t of the under thread.

Whether the first or the second side of the huttonholc is being stitched the stitch-Torah tig cycle is the same. as is also the case when barring, for the complemental member takes off the loop of needle-thread after each needle thrust, and the spreading, holding, and asting off of the loops of upper and Jr thrmd fwlinw in regular sequence as JAQ IL s smrze during the wk: 22mg first e2 ssifie 1m M the midi mead :25 it kzulsg he one why}: harms. 1s x'e'hw ed in as the Sprvmk a vim members I and 01113 by their simultamzous and rclativ :"rtmr essmw YBOYI'JII'IQIH'S and damages of pogitimx perferm list re nix-ed funsiicu'is.

It mil be understood from flu: des-sliptfim and'thc (irzmvirw: 15m: 1:? the needle to form depth side of the buttonhole will stitcheg when ihe apposite s'u .v stitched, and in like manner the; a edgy: stitches at one side WU! {on I stitches 0.6 the other side. This :1 v foilnws when it is remembered thai; the (u- 0 db: rvcipmrzates in two fixed. paralEa-l and upright: paths first'in one and they: in a other path as it is vibrated laielzfh', Hm

work Ewing shi ited bodily am lzzfemfliy with relzitiml t0 5-inch paths, in Qm JmgJiFh im 2 lfiiSTTQl'Eh-Ulfl and vfi'act ihe barring thereo'i The e whicfl indicate fiw prints of 'pfinvtmilm; of fire needlg in one of its paths are L germ with relation to fiche pomis 0f pene. tion a? fin"? maxilla in other path, an? ter prints being inflizz:

and

@ 1 5 a)?" lwndrma maxim in ihm xmm-ting: fr?

um pro fur H29 stitching of 13111: aides thereof, a-

ciprocating and laterally vibrated eyepointed needle carring the upper thread, asingle looper cooperating therewith and carrying" theunder thread, and a loopspreader movable with and also relatively to the looper. said looper and spreader entering and spreading every loop of needle thread and the looper carrying a bight of inder thread through each of the upper thread loops in the tornnttion of an. over-seam.

3. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with a Work-clamp and means for moving it in the direction of the length of the buttonhole during the stitching of one side thcreot and to reverse such move ment durinn the stitching of the opposite side thereof, ot air uppcntln'ead loop-forming lnecl'mnism. means to actuate it to form loops of upper thread alternately in ditTerent positions horizontally, under-thread loopiorming mechanism cooperating with the upper thread loop-forming mechanism to form an overseam coi'npostd of concatenated hops of upper and under thread, said under thread loopiorming mechanism including a single combined looper and spreader device, means to cause said looper and spreader device to enter every loop of upper thread and to carry a bight ot the under thread. therethrough andthereafter to spread simultaneously a loop of each thread.

4. In a buttonholc-seuing machine prorided with a work-clamp movable in the direction of the length of the buttonholc and at right an les thereto, stitch forming mechanism con'iprising a reciprocatingand laterally vibrated eye-pointed needle above the work, a single looper and a single loopspreader, both below the work, the looper carnying the under thread, and means to actuate said looper and spreader in coon eration with. the needle to enter and spread each loop of needle thread and to present loops of needle thread and under thread alternately to he entered by the needle.

In a buttonholesewing inachgine, the combination with a clamp to clamp and more the work, ol'- a two-thread St-litlhffillflinn' mcelmnism including uppenthrcad looptol. minn' mechanism of upper thread in two ditlerent positions, a looper carrying the under thread, a loop spreader movable with and also relative to said looper, means to cause said looper and loop-sprmder to enter each loop of upper thread and carry a loop of lll'it'ltl thread therethrough, and means to effect relative movement of said loopcr and spreader to-spread inniltanwudr loops, of upnt-r and under thread.

5-. threa-r -carr vin;g needle to penetrate the work to t. rm ahernately depth and edge sti shes of a hutwnlmle, and compleniental adapted to form loops means co-acting with the needle, comprising a single under thread-carrying looper, a loop-spreader carried thereby, said looper and spreader engaging the loop o 1' needlethread at each descent of the needle and taking the under thread through such loop. means to open the spreader and spread simultaneously the loops of needle and under thread at each ascent of the needle. and means to position the said looper and open spreader for the needle to enter its own spread loop on one descent and to enter the spread loop of under thread at its next descent.

the work to form alternately depth and edge stitches of a buttonhole, a complemental member co-acting with the needle an carrying an under thread, said member entering each loop of needle-thread and tak ing the under thread therothrough at each descent of the needle, means to cause said member to spread the loops ofboth threads at each ascent of the needle, and means to impart a variable movement to said complemental member to present the open loop of needle-thread for the entrance of the needle on one descent thereof and to present the open loop of underthread for the entrance of the needle on its next descent.

.8. A thread-carrying needle to penetrate the work to form alternately depth and edge stitches of a buttonhole and compleinental means co-acting Withthe needle, eomprising under tln'ead-carrying looper, a l-:mp-spreader pivot-ally mounted on the looper, said looper and spreader engaging the loop of needle-thread at each descent of the needle and taking a loop of under thread theongh such loop of needle-thread, means to thereafter open the spr *ader and hold the loops of needle and under thread spread for the next descent of the mettle, and means to position said looper and open spreader to enable the needle on one descent to mnetrate its own spread loop and on the next descent to penetrate the spread loop of under thread 9. A thread-carrying needle tc penetrate the Work to form alternately tlepth and edge stitches of a huttonhole, and complemental means co=actlngt with the needle, comprising a single under thread-carrying looper, a'loop-spreader pivoted on and able toward and away from the tip of said loeper, a spring to close said looper and closed ldop of needle-tln'ead at each descent of the needle-and taking a loop of the under thread l through such loop of needle'thread. means to open the splcader thereafter and maintain it open until the next descent of the needle, to spread the loops of needle. and under thread embracing the looper and i spreader, and means to eil'eet a complete 05- spre-uler taking the 7. A thread-carrying needle to penetratethe spreader, the

mov-

cillatinn of the moprr and Bpreadev for each recipx'mmion. of the nomiie andtempnmrily nrrvfl ab? hope): and 911;" 3: ma efwh re,- "tl'iwtiws Mmxe u; p:- U; Imp of nmedluilmrzui h: be pa Hm needle on one dear-Put am? an Hcxant 'fflifx A w meant the spines"; undi-r 1b: a i in he puzmcimiefl by ii 10. A I'JGHN'LPUHV having an o v'wpointed needle, am, nmm= m nmprnmte and laterally vibl-m'c 5452M 'HJJHCHH'ITMKXZ iln' thu fox-mm J next u'f tion of edge and W342! 91; hawuhfil'nately combined with shwud *rymg loupex'.

mum "my th- H 1 1M on ts next. (inseam.

i i. A :ewww umng and 'micmH-y mhrated Lu Mvla-w 1mm; an u m-pmnmd meme,

nnmMw-fi wzb an wrv'si n5; w' nmlemenhfl uwnimv I f 1mvith and comprisizpif mm ying Magyar and 1 singka utaliy connected. and .0}? of needle-thread,

A luop-mm'muicx carried pcnehimeii Ly depth and the movetake 11 soup (5f under tm mad t'nrmjggh he i n 1 of Hawks-451mm! and smvnrl 011:

IHIIMLIUQUHSW', and manna to gmwm mu! culnpienwnhi imualbvz' M, pn-wwr mm M I in form Q :1 lnnpm' 1 (in U, Y.

operate WM. the spreafier and open it after engs-ugumem of each ioop of media-Giraud and mainmin (he apreader open until afier temporary arnasi of the 1001;?! on ifs rz'eiracv tim snake,

16. An 8- painted nevdle Partying a thread, and memu '10 cause *lm in makfi depth and wigs: min-1w altm'zluiciy, combined with n ccmpurafimr cumpiwnmnu'i m'rwnber marrying a sun-am: flnwmi ,eaid nmnb x' smnprhmg two p3rum inwmmectad blzulefiikv pm. vonstituting a lcogwr and a loop-sfireader and afiuptud when classed w lie DIR, upan the other, to engage each loop of needle-thread and meenanism to effect, bodily mnvemem of .-ai l complemental member and cause said loop r and loop'sprcat'ler to enter each loop t' needle thread and to control the opening air closing: of the said l latle-lilrc parts tl'ttte' Pl 7 ll. ln a but oahoh-stitchingu1acliim-.the olnhination with an upper-thread loop forming nu-chanrin. complcmcntal linden; thread mechani m t'- prising means to rarry a loop of under thread through each l lo p of upper thread and actuating mocha l uisnr f r said parts cqicratin; to cause the loops of .tllf lli'i thread to be inserted alterfini ely thtougzh a previously formed loop of upplir thr ad and a loop of und r thread. i

li in a bnlon olc stit hing: machine. the

coinhinttion with an n pcr-thrcad loop- I lot-tiling; me lmnisua wt romplvmcntal unilcn thread niccl animi imludii-g incaus to carry a loop of under thread through each loop of upper thy-oath and thereafter to spread both lo p and mechanism for actuating: such partrtiptltllllifl to falls: the loops of upper thrrnd tohe inrertcd alternately throughi lo-po'l upper thread and loops of under 1 thread while they are spr ad by said merha- 3 fllSln. l 19. in a huttonhole stitching machine. a nee\,llehar and its i vepointctl needle, comhined with coniplemcntal under thremlrarl rying mechanism comprising a single looper l single loop-spreader. int-ans to inttraiit- I ingly separate the tips of the loopcr antl "ad r. and means. including a cam. to 1 move the looper and spreader in unison torward in a path adjacent the path of the: needle and cause them to enter each loop of 5 needle thread and to eti'ect an initial and 1 final retraetiw naiivement of said parts from the needle path and teznporarilv arrest such 1 parts l ctween each initial and final rctracthe movement while said parts are in the l op of ncrdle thread.

29. In a hlittonhole stitching machine. a ve tically reciprocating and laterally vi-l hratrd eye-ptnnted needle. combined witht cnn-plemcntal under tliread-carcving mechl auism. comprising a horizontally swingingl looper carricr. a single looper fixedly mounted thereon. single loop spreader. pi\ otally mounted on the l oper. a spr adcr- 3 closing spring; means to cooperate with and i intcrn'iittingly open the spreader, and means to swing the loopt-r-rarrier and tllwt move" meat of the loop r and loopa-prmtdm in unison toward and from the path f the needle at each reciprocation of tin-needle. to cause the single looper ard loop sprca lcr to enter and reccdc from each loop of needle thread.

21. In a buttonhole stitching machine, a vertically reciprocatingand laterally vi brated eye-pointed needle. combined with complemental under thread-carrying mecha anism, comprising a single looper having an i on the looper to limit movement 03 the eye for the under thread, means to OSUlllllic the looper toward and from the path ot' the needle at each reciprocation of the ncedha i. take each loop ofcneedlc-thread, a sh al-dc: hu dle-thread loop thereon. a single loopspreader carried by and movable or the looper, a spring to close the spreader aith its tip contiguous to the ip of the to per.

and means to coiiperate with said loopspreader during a portion of the oscillating movement of the looper, to open the spreader and separate the tip thereof from the tip of the looper.

22. In a buttonholc stitching machine provided with a work-clamp movable in the direction of the length of the huttrnhole and also laterally with relation thereto, in combination, overseam forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocating anzl lat orally vibrated eye-pointed needle. 3 single ombined looper and spreader eotiperating: therewith to enter each loop of needle thread and carrying an under thread, and means to cause saidromhined looper and spreader to spread and present a loop of necdle-thread to he entered by the needle on one descent thereof and to spread and present a loop ot' under thread to be entered by the needle on its next descent.

23. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp. of stitchforming mechanism forming an overseam composed of concatenated loops of upper and under thread, said mechanism including means to form loops in the upper thread, a single combined looper and spreader de vice carrying the under thread, actuating mechanism for such parts to cause said looper and spreader device to enter every loop of upper thread and carry a bight of the under thread thercthrough and thereafter to simultaneously spread a loop of each thread. and to cause loops of upper thread to be inserted alternately through previously formed loops of upper thread and under thread.

24. In a butt uhole sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp to clamp and move the worln of a two-thread stitchforming mechanism in luding upper-thread loop'forming mechanism. a looper carrying l the under thread. a loop spreader movable with and m. to said looper and actuating ltlttldtlilqtl for said parts to cause said loopcr and loop spreader to enter each loop of upper thread and carry a loop of under thread tla-relhrough. thereafter to ef fcct relative movement of said looper and spreader to spread sinmltancously loops of upper and under thread and to insert the loops of upper thread alternately through the spr ad loops of upper thread and the spread loops of under thread.

In a butwnhole-sewing machine, the

combination with an eye-pointed needle, of xiate thrusts of the needle the lrlliQ 1 means to reciprocate said needle vertically puss through the loops of upper Yin a and to vibrate it lateral] at each reciprowhile on the other thrusts of :lunor-(ill; it cation, complemental un (er-thread mecha- 1 will pass through loops m? undo? tl will. nism comprising a single combined looper In testimony whereof, I have signed my and spreader device and means to actuate name to this specification, in "ilk? pru nte of said parts to cause said combined looper and l two subscribing witneesosi spreader device to enter every loop of up CHA HLES in per thread to carry a loop of under thread therethrough, to spread both loops and to position said spread loops so that on alterl llll'llf. Witnesses:

JOHN C. EDWARDS,

FRANK L. CADY. 

